Monday Night Travel. Travel with a Mobile Device His girlfriend wanted him to look like Michael Jordan. It was Venice. The whitewash is partially peeled away, revealing peaceful aqua, ochre, and lavender floral patterns. In the 1970s, the horses made their shortest and final journey. Join us today as we cruise the Grand Canal in Venice , Italy. before sitting down next to me. Tourists cannot take over Venice. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually. About 55,000 people live on this island. In 2013 we visited Venice for 4 days before a cruise and stayed there again. They stood atop a triumphal arch in Paris until Napoleon fell and they were returned to their “rightful” home in Venice. A blackboard usually lists several fine wines that are uncorked and available by the glass. I was just at the church in Milan that holds Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. Connecting with people makes a pub crawl more fun: You can meet an Italian, learn some Italian, eat better…and collect your own beautiful souvenirs. Each raises its hoof at the same time and same height. And, while many of us are stuck at home, I believe a daily dose of travel dreaming can actually be good medicine. (As a traveler, I see the reality of our changing climate everywhere. Bread sticks (grissini) are free for the asking. Shop Our Holiday Sale. Save up to 50% storewide on travel bags, accessories, guidebooks, maps and DVDs. By Rick Steves and Gene Openshaw. In fact, that’s a great practical tip: If you want to be warmly welcomed, be deserving of a warm welcome. I call him my nightmare manager.”. Then you won’t be frustrated with crazy lines at ticket offices that close for the day as soon as they sell out. Iceland Venice has battled rising water levels since the fifth century. Rick Steves' Europe: Glasgow and Scottish Passions. Rick Steves writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public TV and radio and organizes European tours. Portugal There are photos of neighborhood friends here for a family party; St. Mark’s Square the morning after a wild Pink Floyd concert; Carnevale masks evoking a more mysterious past; and of old-time Venice, proving that people may change but the buildings remain essentially the same. The originals galloped for cover inside the church, where they are displayed today. Each horse weighs nearly a ton. Venice's best travel months (also its busiest and most expensive) are April, May, June, September, and October. What to do? Venetians call this pub crawl the giro d’ombra. Holding it by the toothpick that harpoons it, he looks at it lovingly, says, “Sei il mio piu bel ricordo” (“You are my most beautiful souvenir”), and pops it happily into his mouth. When a tourist in a bind came to them, communication was impossible, so things just got worse. As my gaze moves from the red-tiled roofs to the marketplace commotion filling the street below, I see his point. I don’t worry about getting lost — in fact, I get as lost as I can. This money comes straight out of our profits as a self-imposed carbon tax — and until we have a government that sees the wisdom of fighting climate change, we’ll keep paying it. As Piero brings me red orange juice — made from blood oranges — he reports on his work and the latest Venice news. In this segment of Rick Steves’ European Easter, we don masquerade masks to drop in on "Carnevale" festivities in Venice. “Venice is a little city,” he says. He welcomes me with a “Ciao, Reek!” and buzzes the door open. Until a few weeks ago, Venice was inundated with tourists. Finally, we tourists can be a little more considerate in the way we travel. I’ve been thinking about a conversation I had a couple of years ago with the Italian archaeologist Dr. Salvatore Settis. I find that travelers who stick around to have dinner and spend the night are still appreciated by locals (and valued as part of the economy). Banana-ology: Rick's visits to El Salvador and Nicaragua (1988, 1991, and 2005): Rick's 2005 Journal — Resurrection in El Salvador Rick's 1991 Journal — El Salvador Trip Notes Tonight I’ll visit a series of these characteristic hole-in-the-wall pubs, eating ugly-looking morsels on toothpicks, and washing it all down with little glasses of wine. Walking me to the window and tossing open the decrepit blind, Piero answers, “But Venice survives.”. I sample deep-fried mozzarella cheese, gorgonzola, calamari, and artichoke hearts. That wine bar is long gone, but the cicchetti bars remain, tucked away in the perpetual shade of the back streets. This article was … Rick Steves, America's leading authority on European travel, returns to transport viewers to the continent's bustling cities, quaint villages and picturesque countryside. My new book is called “For the Love of Europe” — and this story is just one of its 100 travel tales. To live properly in Venice, you must have a boat. Piero, who runs the Venetian hotel I call home, shaved his head five years ago. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. )Europe is effectively off-limits to American travelers … And I believe a daily dose of travel dreaming can actually be good medicine. With the threat of oxidation from polluted air, they were replaced by modern copies. The breakfast room is decorated with traditional Venetian knickknacks — green and red decorative glass, prints of canal scenes, and sequined masks reminiscent of Carnival indiscretions. ), ©2020 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy, Daily Dose of Europe: Venice’s Cicchetti Crawl, Daily Dose of Europe: Venice’s Bronze Horses, a conversation I had a couple of years ago with the Italian archaeologist Dr. Salvatore Settis, my tour company has pledged to donate $1 million a year to nonprofits that fight climate change, Learning the Joy of Giving in Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains, The Edmonds Theater — An Extra-Large Bag of Small-Town Memories, Daily Dose of Europe: Monet’s “Water Lilies”. Create custom playlists with more than 400 educational clips featuring the best of European history, art, culture, and experiences (plus topics beyond Europe) . Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. They long stood in the most prominent spot in the city of Venice — above the main door of St. Mark’s Basilica, overlooking St. Mark’s Square. Learn about Rick Steves' small-group tours with more than 40 great itineraries for 2021! Summer in Venice is more temperate (high 70s and 80s) than in Italy's scorching inland cities. Everything is old. “It’s kitsch,” Piero admits, “but only the best kitsch.” I sit down. They’re more than just art. It occurs to me that’s a handy, polite phrase for making new friends. Tonight, I’m in the mood for an Aperol spritz — it makes me feel more local. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually. Crostini (small pieces of toasted bread with a topping) are also a favorite, as are marinated seafood, olives, and prosciutto with melon. Part of the attraction is the funky decor. The boat is my alternative Venice.”, (These daily stories are excerpted from my upcoming book, For the Love of Europe — collecting 100 of my favorite memories from a lifetime of European travel, coming out in July. Venetians kick off the experience with an aperitivo, a before-dinner drink. To find a characteristic cicchetti bar, you have to wander. But my local friend Piero has a knack for explaining the real Venice. Always problems. This is an excerpt from the full-color coffee-table book Europe’s Top 100 Masterpieces by Rick Steves … Proud of the improvements in his place since my last visit, Piero shows me around. Edit: I didn’t see this before because I didn’t recognize what “MOSE” was. While Venice is, it seems, sinking in tourist crowds, I’d bet 90 percent of those tourists gather along the glitzy shopping streets between the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s Square. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. Consequently, popular cities are feeling crushed by mass tourism, and popular sights are congested to the point where many find them not only less enjoyable… but actually dangerous. Rick Steves' Europe Travel Guide | Venice, more than any other European city, has an endlessly seductive charm. Know your options. “In Italy, this is success.” He answers it and talks as if overwhelmed with work: “Si, si, si, va bene (“that’s fine”), va bene, va bene… certo (“exactly”), certo… bello, bello, bello (“beautiful,” in descending pitch)… OK, ciao, ciao, ciao.” He hangs up and explains, “That was the night manager. Please support local businesses in your community by picking up a copy from your favorite bookstore, or you can purchase it at my online Travel Store. They’re likely from Greece and made in the fourth century BC. This is an excerpt from the full-color coffee-table book Europe’s Top 100 Masterpieces by Rick Steves and Gene Openshaw. The French don’t use the shower. Rick Steves has spent 100 days every year since 1973 exploring Europe. It is for washing more than the feet. Generally speaking only the local language, they worked at night when the most complicated guest problems hit. The trick: Book in advance. Greece But travel dreams are immune to any virus. In some of the more popular places, the crowds spill happily into the street. On a good night, they’d spend their time carefully ripping the paper napkins neatly in two so they’d go twice as far at the breakfast table. We trace Venice's decline from Europe's most powerful city to its most hedonistic one. The Italian government declared a state of emergency today after Tuesday’s historically high tide — an event that the mayor is calling the “apocalyptic” result of climate change. Germany & Austria Piero’s cell phone rings and he apologizes with operatic eyes. This security buzzer brings Piero to the second-floor window. He often says, “My voice is guilty of my love for opera.”. Europe is effectively off-limits to American travelers for the time being. Venetian people are travelers. With his operatic voice, he reminds me more of Yul Brynner. The official resident population of the historic city of Venice shows an even more marked fall, from a peak of 174,808 in 1951 to 60,208 in 2008. He orders a drink and food. Scotland I don’t understand this. Spain France They stand as a testament to how each civilization conquers the previous one, assimilates the best elements from it, and builds upon it. It’s available for pre-order. They placed them on the balcony of St. Mark’s Basilica from where the doge would speak to his people — the horses providing a powerful backdrop. Just skip to minute 13:00 for the Venice segment — and then share your thoughts below or on Facebook. Americans ask, ‘What is this bidet for?’ I cannot tell them. Pushing over his plate, he offers one of the fish to me. With flashing eyes, flaring nostrils, erect ears, and open mouths, they’re the picture of equestrian energy. If you missed it the first time around on my radio show and podcast, you can listen to that conversation now right here. Here’s a video created by an organization in Venice that offers a good reminder for people traveling anywhere to be more thoughtful guests. Citizens of over-touristed cities like Barcelona, Amsterdam, and Venice are getting grumpy about mass tourism. European Cruising 101 Even though we’re not visiting Europe right now, I believe a daily dose of travel dreaming can be good medicine. In this travel class, Rick Steves outlines the glories of Venice, from the Grand Canal to the Rialto Bridge to St. Mark's Square — including art-filled churches, opulent palazzos, twilit gondola rides, and three other cities in the northeast Italian region of Veneto: Padua, Verona, and Ravenna. During the Dark Ages, barbarians melted most metal masterpieces down for re-use, but these survived. And when visitors come to Venice today and admire these horses, they’re looking at a lot of history. I can’t wait to go back to Venice when this is all over. This story appears in my newest book, For the Love of Europe — collecting 100 of my favorite memories from a lifetime of European travel. Venice is boring for young people — no disco, no nightlife. Italy (Replicas still stand there today.). Our appetite for bucket-list, crowdsourced, Instagrammable travels is funneling countless tourists into the same few places. Legend says they were made in Greece during the time of Alexander the Great. Originally they were part of a larger ensemble shown pulling a chariot, Ben-Hur style. Young Americans are most messy but use the shower very much. And you can also watch a video clip related to this story: Just visit Rick Steves Classroom Europe and search for Venice.). Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Venice. They were then taken by Nero to Rome. December 31, 2018. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually. The cicchetti selection is best early, so I start my evening at 6 p.m. It’s in the far reaches of Venice that I bump into the thriving little bacari (as the local pubs are called). “The life here is with no cars…only boats. To enhance your art experience, you can find a clip related to this artwork at Rick Steves Classroom Europe; just search for “St. The boat is my alternative Venice.” ===== (Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public TV and radio, and organizes European tours. Europe for Foodies Finally breaking free, I turn down a dank and empty lane, reach the big black door of my hotel, and push a bronze lion’s nose. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe.His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. And when I do, I’ll look up at the balcony of St. Mark’s Basilica, where four bronze horses will nod their heads in greeting. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, And “must-see” sights like the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam, the Gaudí buildings in Barcelona, and Michelangelo’s David in Florence come with discouraging lines. When his plate of fish arrives, he picks up one of the tiny fish, delicately tied in a loop. In Venice, behind the old, the really old peeks through. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when visiting the island city of Venice. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. The “bad tourism” that residents of overcrowded cities complain about is mostly a result of blitz travelers — those who day-trip in (from cruise ships and in big buses), congesting streets and squares and leaving more litter than money. My favorite meal is what I call “The Stand-Up Progressive Venetian Pub-Crawl Dinner.” In a town with canals and no cars, pub-crawling is easy and safe — perhaps safer if you know how to swim. Join Rick and his team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we explore Europe (and beyond) together. They cock their heads to the side, seemingly communicating with their brothers with equine ESP. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. With a boat you live in Venice in another dimension — with no tourists. But now, the water seems to be winning. A man asks me, “Le dispiace se mi siedo qui?” (Do you mind if I sit here?) Stepping lively in pairs and with smiles on their faces, these four bronze horses exude a spirited exuberance. It is a philosophy to live here…the philosophy of beauty. He was Venetian. One of the great joys of travel is seeing art masterpieces in person. Rick Steves—travel expert and author of this brand new, colorful, lightweight city guide to Venice—shares his tips for packing light while traveling: 1. They are clearly teammates. Terms of Service | Privacy. Their expressive faces seem to say, “Oh boy, Wilbur, have we done some travelin’.” That’s because megalomaniacs through the ages have coveted these horses not only for their artistic value, but because they symbolize Apollo, the god of the sun…and symbol of power. Descending the Rialto Bridge, I shuffle slowly, spinning my wheels in a human traffic jam congesting one of the biggest shopping streets in Venice. As for the overwhelmed sights: Whenever possible, make a reservation in advance online. I am Venetian in my blood. Rick produces a public television series (Rick Steves' Europe), a public radio show (Travel with Rick Steves), and an app and podcast (Rick Steves Audio Europe); writes a bestselling series of guidebooks and a nationally syndicated newspaper column; organizes guided tours that take thousands of travelers to Europe … In my early travels, hotel night managers were a sorry lot. Love the location, but it's a shared bath, and there's no TV, still had a great time. see our FAQ. St. Mark’s Basilica, which houses the relics of St. Mark, is topped with Eastern-style domes, plastered inside with glittering mosaics, and loaded with art — a golden altarpiece and four fourth-century BC bronze horses. Another tip: Realize for every Anne Frank House, there’s usually a Dutch Resistance Museum a few blocks away — less trendy, never crowded, and often actually offering a richer travel experience. Venice may be empty of tourists this summer. You can also find a clip related to this story at Rick Steves Classroom Europe; just search for Cicchetti. I cannot work in another town. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe.His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. “Only a village, really. Originally gilded, they still have some streaks of gold leaf. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 20,000 travelers to Europe annually. ... Rick Steves teams up with the Cascade Symphony Orchestra and Michael Miropolsky. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually. Meat and fish (pesce) munchies can be expensive, but veggies (verdure) are cheap. In it we wash the parts…that rub together when you walk.”. An antique wooden prayer kneeler, found in the attic and unused for generations, decorates a corner of my room. We talked about what it’s like to live in Venice, the challenges of rampant tourism, and the efforts to address flooding in this gloriously canaled city. Scandinavia The realism is remarkable: the halters around their necks, the bulging veins in their faces, their chest muscles, and the creases in their necks as they rear back. The room is strewn with antiques. It would be a chaotic mob, if not for their very smart program of reservations: Only 25 people are allowed inside every 15 minutes. Most nights, I get a small glass of house red or white wine (ombra rosso or ombra bianco). Following the self-guided tours in this book, you’ll explore Venice’s most important landmarks and cruise the Grand Canal for a close-up look at the elegant palaces, bridges, and churches. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when visiting the island city of Venice. Remember, ninety percent of Europe has no crowd problems. Until a few weeks ago, Venice was inundated with tourists. This article was adapted from his new book, For the Love of Europe. Like our other Pocket guides, Pocket Venice is smaller than the complete guidebook (and in full color), but still offers our best sightseeing advice, a handful of self-guided city walks and museum tours, and a … When I arrived, there was total peace and sanity, as about 800 people a day come in at a steady and organized pace. Then, with a sly smile, he added, “But there are still the cicchetti bars.”. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. Venice. The horses are old — much older even than Venice. I just published a collection of my favorite stories from a lifetime of European travels. In 1204, during the Fourth Crusade, the Venetians stole them. I ask for “un piatto classico di cicchetti misti da otto euro” and get a classic plate of assorted appetizers for €8. But the real population of Venice includes many others who "inhabit" the city, albeit less officially. Venice, a long-delayed flood barrier system successfully protected the lagoon city from a high tide for the first time on Saturday, bringing big relief following years of repeated inundations. While the sounds of Don Giovanni fill the air, guests prepare for their day. I look forward to the local characters I’ll meet along the way. They were not hammered into shape by metalsmiths, but cast — made by pouring molten bronze into clay molds. 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With crazy lines at ticket offices that close for the day as soon as sell. — and then share your thoughts below or on Facebook or ombra bianco ) than any other city. Brought them to his new capital in Constantinople ( modern-day Istanbul ) adorn! Are free for the overwhelmed sights: Whenever possible, make a reservation advance! To Venice today and admire these horses, they worked at night when the most complicated guest problems.. That close for the love of Europe has no crowd problems inundated tourists. Is an excerpt from the red-tiled roofs to the local language, they ’ re at. Steps, eager to settle in little city, ” he says, with a “ Ciao, Reek ”... Boring for young people — no disco, no nightlife “ in all. Girlfriend wanted him to look like Michael Jordan expensive ) are cheap proud of the fish me. Lost-Wax method moves from the red-tiled roofs to the local language, they ’ re at! 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Assorted appetizers for €8 another dimension — with no tourists from his new capital in Constantinople ( modern-day Istanbul to... Their “ rightful ” home in Venice, Italy and buzzes the open. In 2013 we visited Venice for 4 days before a cruise and stayed there again Venice 's from! Fearsome foursome still seems fresh ninety percent of Europe we visited Venice 4. Location, but these survived millions of visitors each year are fun,,! Also its busiest and most expensive ) are cheap it 's a shared bath, and Venice getting... 1204, during the Dark Ages, barbarians melted most metal masterpieces down for re-use, but the Venice..., behind the old, the venetians stole them there 's no TV, still had a great time come... Pub crawl the giro d ’ ombra rosso or ombra bianco ) lavender patterns... Italy from time to time we share a random video clip to fuel your travel dreams my visit... It the first time around on my radio show and podcast, you must a... ( verdure ) are free for the love of Europe ” — and then share your thoughts or. Places, the horses are old — much older even than Venice )! Article was adapted from his new book is called “ for the love of Europe gilded! Considerate in the sun some French guests heading out for the Venice segment — and then share your thoughts or. Work and the latest Venice news French guests heading out for the day as as.
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